Old Observatory House

Fanned by the intellectual flames of the Enlightenment, the city granted permission to Thomas Short – an Edinburgh-born optician – to found an observatory on top of the volcanic hill in 1776.

With a telescope made by his brother James (reputedly once belonging to the King of Denmark), Short took up residence in Old Observatory House, a romantic Gothic structure designed by New Town planner James Craig.

However, funds quickly dried up and the city council bought back the land – and Short’s telescope was impounded. The castellated towers of Old Observatory House were soon abandoned – as was Short’s vision for his Edinburgh observatory.

In 1811, scientific pursuits were well-established and the Edinburgh Astronomical Society was formed. Looking to Short’s previous attempts, they oversaw the building of the Edinburgh City Observatory, which opened six year later.

The town’s planners and architects were looking to create a sense of individuality for Edinburgh at the time, choosing ancient Greece as their inspiration.

The City Observatory

Although currently closed to the public (except for special events), Edinburgh’s City Observatory is a fascinating place, where the optimism and excitement of early scientific advances can still be felt.

A small structure, it contains two areas of particular note.

The Transit Telescope

Astronomers were able to record precise timings from these readings, which were invaluable to the captains and pilots of ships coming in and out of Leith Docks.

Once these methods were established, sailors would travel from the docks to the observatory – carrying their chronomoters – and would set them against the ‘Politician’s Clock’ (so-called because of its two faces: one facing inward for the astronomers; the other outward-facing to allow visitors to take readings from it).

This procedure continued until 1854 and the erection of the timeball on top of the Neslon Monument; and the establishment of the One O’Clock Gun in 1861. Both of these methods of signalling the time were controlled – via electrical transmission running along wires between the buildings – from the observatory itself.

The Politician's Clock

Used as an observatory by the Astronomical Society of Edinburgh until as recently as 2008, the City Observatory is now closed, long since superceded by Edinburgh’s Royal Observatory on Blackford Hill.

Old Observatory House is now undergoing renovation with a view to being converted into luxury serviced apartments; and it is hoped that the City Observatory will one day be restored to its former glory. It is also planned to use the beautiful Playfair building as a venue during 2010′s Art Festival.

This distinctive and elegant complex of buildings atop Calton Hill provide a unique glimpse back in time to Edinburgh’s architectural and scientific golden age.


So, next time you catch a glimpse of the moon above the city skyline; or hear the boom of the gun from the Castle ramparts at 1pm, take a moment to recall the ingenuity and vision of those who helped shape this fascinating part of the city into what we see today.

Full moon in the Edinburgh sky

Edinburgh Spotlight loves Calton Hill and has recently reviewed the Nelson Monument which is the tall tower perched on the top that can be seen from many places around Edinburgh.

There are several other interesting buildings which are up Calton Hill and here we will take a closer look at them and what they are.

View from Nelson Monument

If we start at the top left of the above picture, we come to Observatory House, the oldest of the buildings up here and was designed by James Craig, architect of the layout of the New Town, and completed in 1872.  It was intended to be used as the city observatory but due to lack of funds, no equipment could be bought.  Today you can rent out the accommodation that has been restored there.

Observatory House

Right in the middle of the walled enclosure, which is best viewed from Nelson Monument is the City Observatory designed by William Playfair and completed in 1818.  It became the Royal Observatory in 1822 , but in 1897, the equipment was moved to Blackford hill, where the Royal Observatory still stands today.

City Observatory

The green domed building is Telescope House which is associated with the Observatory.

Telescope House

On the other corner, the smallest of all the buildings is the Playfair Monument, a square temple-like structure designed by W H Playfair for his mathematician uncle and erected in 1825-26.

Playfair from above

Perhaps the most recognisable building on Calton Hill is the National Monument which was designed in 1826 but abandoned in 1829 due to lack of funds.  The design was based on the Parthenon in Athens and was intended to commemorate the dead from the Napoleonic Wars.  Tourists love to climb the structure and pose for photographs, which you are allowed to do.  Locals spend summer days and evenings here, reading a book perched against a column.

National Monument

Another of the most recognisable buildings up forms part of a perfect Edinburgh view often found on postcards.  The Dugald Stewart Monument was erected in the memory of the Professor of Moral Philosophy at Edinburgh University.  Designed by W H Playfair and built in 1830 – 32, it is almost an exact replica of the Lysicrates on the Acropolis in Athens.

Dugald Stewart Monument and classic Edinburgh view

We love this view so much it has become our icon that we use on other social media sites such as facebook and twitter.

Calton Hill is a must see when visiting town, or if you are a resident, the next time you are up there, you will know what all the buildings are.

Suitable for disabled ? You can enter by car from the Regent Road side and if you are using a wheelchair, then this approach is possible if you have someone VERY strong to assist.  You need to come back down this way as the other exit has steps, or go via the road (but has speed bumps).

Looking at its green and pleasant expanse today, it’s hard to think The Meadows once used to be a loch. Whilst the Nor Loch (now West Princes Street Gardens) used to provide defence and – unfortunately – waste disposal for Edinburgh in the middle ages, the South or Burgh Loch was a little more sanitary and therefore used to be the source of much of the city’s drinking water.

The Meadows in autumn

The Meadows in spring

A misty morning in the Meadows

In the 18th century, the area was landscaped and many of the amenities and features still enjoyed today were introduced, most notably Middle Meadows Walk itself, the beautiful tree-lined avenue cutting directly across the park in a north-south direction. Around this time also, the Royal Company of Archers began to use the area as a practice ground, a traditon that continues to this day and marked this year by the 300th Edinburgh Arrow ceremonial competition.

Fencers practice in the Meadows

In 1886, the Meadows was the location for the International Exhibition of Industry, Science and Art, which was perhaps the first instance of a temporary installation making use of the wide and beautiful surroundings. A few reminders of this still exist, such as the stone pillars at either end of Melville Drive or – more famously – the whale’s jawbone still standing at the southern end of Middle Meadow Walk.

Since then, the Meadows has become one of the most loved and treasured green spaces for residents and visitors alike. Due to its closeness to the Edinburgh University buildings, it is a popular location for students – either in its capacity as a sport practice ground or just somewhere to hang out and relax.

The whale's jawbone at the end of Middle Meadow Walk

In recent years, many events and temporary venues have made use of the Meadows, most infamously the Ladyboys of Bangkok and their circus tent during the Edinburgh Festival. Some feel that this constant use of the space is damaging to the environment, and the Friends of The Meadows & Bruntsfield Links group has campaigned for more strict protection of the area.

The Meadows is a beautiful area of the city with a fascinating history which this article has only touched on. Recently-introduced information panels tell more to those visiting, whilst the Friends of the Meadows site has an excellent in-depth article on the topic.

So, the next time you visit, why not imagine how it must have looked when it was covered with water; or with a large Victorian exhibition pavillion in the middle of it – or just think of all those people throughout the years who have enjoyed the same space before you.