Fringe 2012 - it's coming!

A selection of Edinburgh Fringe 2012 tickets on sale now

We can’t believe we’re collating this list in February, but here are the details to the tickets available for purchase now:

Frankie Boyle is appearing at the Edinburgh Playhouse 31st July – 2nd August – tickets here

As ever, the Faulty Towers dining experience have put their August tickets on sale early. There are both lunch performances and dinner performances.

Various performers have early bird tickets on the Edinburgh Fringe’s official website.

The wonderful Venue 150 has a tremendous line up of comedians for 2012 and have a great selection of tickets on sale now:

Jason Byrne, 1st – 12th August tickets here

Alan Davies, 9th – 14th August tickets here

Jimmy Carr, 16th-18th and 23rd – 25th August tickets here

Rhod Gilbert, 15th – 19th and 22nd – 26th August tickets here

Jimeoin, 2nd – 20th August tickets here

Daniel Sloss, 2nd – 20th August tickets here

Udderbelly

Craig Hill, 2nd – 27th August tickets here

Tiddler and other terrific tales, 2nd – 27th August tickets here

We will add more listings to this page as they come available, so bookmark it for reference and keep visiting!

Meanwhile if you need a ‘Fringe’ fix – have a look at all of our 2011 coverage.  Dates of all Edinburgh’s 2012 festivals can be found here.

The Royal Mile runs through the heart of the Old Town and is a must for any visitors to the city.  As a resident, I have walked up and down the street hundreds of times over the years, but there is always some small detail that I notice every time I explore the area.   The Royal Mile  runs from Edinburgh Castle down to Holyrood Palace and consists of six different sections.

Edinburgh Castle

Starting from the top, there is Edinburgh Castle where you will find the Scottish Crown, Sword and Sceptre, and the legendary Stone of Destiny.  Free guided tours are included with the admission price, or you can take it at your own pace with an audio tour.  At peak tourist times, it makes sense to buy your tickets in advance as the ticket queues can take up valuable sightseeing time.  If your budget doesn’t allow full entry to the Castle, make sure you still walk through the grand entrance so you can say you have been within the Castle walls.  This is now possible due to the relocation of the box office inside the grounds, leaving the esplanade clear for taking excellent photos.

There are panoramic views of Edinburgh to be had from the castle esplanade.  Look out for the magnificent George Heriot’s School built in 1628 which looks like another castle, straight out of a fairytale.

As you head down the Castlehill section of the Royal Mile, you will see the Scotch Whisky Experience which also houses Amber Restaurant.  On your left, you will see Camera Obscura which is a 150 year old observatory and a fun place for children and adults alike.

Views down the Royal Mile from Camera Obscura

Moving down the Royal Mile, you will start to see many tourist shops which basically sell all the same souvenirs, but at a variety of prices, so it pays to shop around.

The Writer’s Museum is set in a charming courtyard which you can access through Lady Stair’s Close.  This is the place to learn about the three great Scots writers, Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson, through manuscripts, portraits and their personal possessions.  (free)

Moving down the Royal Mile, you will come to the High Kirk of St Giles (St Giles Cathedral) which has been an Edinburgh landmark since 1160.  Make sure you see the rib-vaulted ceiling of the Thistle Chapel.  The cathedral looks good at any time of the day or night and in all weather conditions (admission is free, but a donation is welcomed; there is also a small charge requested if you wish to take photos inside).   Opposite the cathedral, there is the spooky Mary King’s Close to explore which is a perfect all-weather activity for those aged 5 and up.  We have also visited the Close with a psychic medium.

High Kirk of St Giles

Further down the Royal Mile, you will cross North Bridge, and to the left, the road leads down to Princes Street.  Stay on the Royal Mile though, and on your left hand side you will come to the Scottish Storytelling Centre which is a theatre with a wide range of entertainment.  Those in the know enquire about the local storytellers who can often be found here.  This is also the place from which to access John Knox’s House, home to the fiery religious reformer in 1599.  The house is a beautiful building to admire from the outside as well.  Across the road is the Museum of Childhood, another council-run museum (free admission) which allows older generations re-live toys from their childhood. Young children also like this museum as they try to comprehend what amused the oldies in times gone by!

Why not stop at Clarinda’s Tearoom in the Canongate for tea and cake?   Make sure you adhere to the rules in this cute eatery.

Further down is Dunbar’s Close Garden, not often found by tourists.  This is a perfect little green area to enjoy a break from the main street. You will often find locals having their lunch here in the warmer months.

Right at the bottom of the Royal Mile you will find the Scottish Parliament.  It was designed by Spanish architect Enric Mirrales and despite being a controversial design, he won the contract.

Directly opposite is the Palace of Holyroodhouse which is the royal residence best known for tales of romance and intrigue during the time of Mary Queen of Scots.  The state rooms are still used by the present-day Queen, who stays here when she is in town.  There is an admission charge, but you can still take a good picture of the palace through the gates to the left.

Although, not strictly on the Royal Mile, you will see Arthur’s Seat which is a fabulous place to get sensational views across the city.  It forms part of Holyrood Park and it is worthwhile walking one of the several circular routes around the extinct volcano.  You will look down on the Palace and see the spires of the places at the top of the Royal Mile and a fantastic view of the Castle. We reviewed this walk when the area was covered in snow.

The Castle from Arthur's Seat

Bear in mind that it’s still light in the evening till around 10pm in the summer, so this free activity can be enjoyed when other tourist attractions are closed.

This guide is by no means a definitive list of what there is to do on the Royal Mile, but gives you a selection to choose from.  The whole area buzzes with charm and surprises and despite having trod the pavement for thirty five years, I still enjoy exploring the hub of activity that is The Royal Mile.

Many of these attractions are available on the Edinburgh Pass that we reviewed.

Santa welcomes the media to the Ghilie Dhu

The Ghilie Dhu provided a little corner of festive respite from a wet November morning today, as it played host to the press launch of Edinburgh’s Christmas.

This year’s celebrations look all set to be the biggest and brightest yet, with the welcome return of some old favourites and the addition of some innovative and exciting-sounding new attractions.

Things will get started in style on November 24th with Light Night, a spectacular opening event which commences with a light projection on the buildings of George Street, followed by pyrotechnics and street theatre: including a fourteen foot-high Snow Queen, who will lead the crowd to the Mound, where Edinburgh’s much-loved Norwegian Christmas Tree will be switched on.

Edinburgh's Lord Provost, Councillor George Grubb welcomes the Snow Queen

Revellers will be spoiled for choice afterwards: with a Norwegian carol concert at St Giles; a music and talent show in St Andrew’s Square; and the ever-popular Christmas Fair, Ice Rink and Christmas Markets, which all open for business on the same day (November 24th).

The Christmas Fair returns this year

St Andrew’s Day will be celebrated on the 26th and 27th of November, with a ‘fire and frost spectacular’ at Edinburgh Castle, featuring a host of events culminating in a finale on the evening of the 27th full of fire and light. The free celebrations for St Andrew’s Day sound like a perfect way to get ready for all the Christmas fun in the month to follow.

And December sees the arrival of a very special visitor. We can’t wait to welcome Santa back to East Princes Street Gardens, where he will arrive on a reindeer-drawn sleigh on Saturday 3rd, making regular visits up until Christmas Eve to collect letters from his postboxes beside the ice rink and the Highland Village Christmas Market.

Then, on Sunday 11th December, Princes Street Gardens will be a sea of red and white as The Great Edinburgh Santa Run returns, kicking off this year with a mass Christmas Zumba warm-up!

The Great Edinburgh Santa Run

Princes Street will be a focal point for many activities this year, with parts of the street being pedestrianised to allow locals and visitors alike to enjoy all Edinburgh has to offer at Christmas time. Shops will open up until 9pm; buskers and performers will add to the fun; and alfresco drinking and dining will be available for those wishing to soak up the atmosphere.

The popular Nativity Scene sculpture returns to St Andrew’s Square to remind us of the true meaning of Christmas; and a Nativity Carol Concert will take place beside it on Sunday 27th November, giving you the chance to sing along to favourite carols and celebrate the start of the season.

With a whole number of events taking place across the city, including the Royal Yacht, the Botanics, The National Museum of Scotland and a special Edinburgh Sparkles treasure hunt: the city looks set to celebrate Christmas in style. Add in all the pantos, musical events and church carol concerts, and we think Christmas 2011 is going to be a magical one indeed!

A full list of attractions, events, times and ticket prices can be found on the Edinburgh’s Christmas website.

Join the Snow Queen on 24 November, when Edinburgh's Christmas opens

Another meal at Edinburgh’s first supper club

We have been lucky enough to dine at Charlie and Evelyn’s Table before. You can only imagine our excitement when we were invited by friends to a ‘chef’s table’ experience last weekend.

Since Chris and Rachel Rowley last hosted a supper club night, they’ve not only moved to a new home, but also have a new addition to the family.

Almost two years on from their first supper for the public, the husband and wife team still ooze enthusiasm, creating different menus to share with food lovers across our culinary rich city. And, there’s no catch. All you’ll find at Charlie and Evelyn’s Table is the sort of service you’d be hard pressed to find in some Edinburgh restaurants, partnered with exquisite food and served on Chris’ grandparents, Charlie and Evelyn’s, table.

The couple cater, without fuss, for dietary requirements and strong food dislikes, to arrive at a fixed menu which suits all guests’ tastes. Our party was a prime example of this with allergies, dislikes and an intolerance to wheat to take into account.

Dunsyre blue cheese mousse on buttery oat biscuits

Arrival

Taking shelter from the fierce Edinburgh winds, eight of us were warmly welcomed into Chris and Rachel’s Comely Bank home, with a glass of champagne, and delicious canapes of spiced mushrooms and a delicious home-made buttery oat biscuit, topped with Dunsyre blue cheese mousse. This only whetted our appetite for what was still to come.

The food

Sitting at a table that could make many a mouth water, we continued our culinary experience with an amuse bouche of curried parsnip soup, garnished with an apple crisp, presented delicately in an espresso cup. It was hard to fathom how something presented so delicately could deliver such intensity of flavour.

As the starter arrived, the aroma of home-made soda bread filled the room. This accompanied a delicious winter salad of seasonal squash, served with rocket, Dunsyre blue and delicately flavoured with rosemary.

Just as we thought my meal couldn’t get any better, the star of the show arrived, venison wellington. As any food lover knows, wellingtons of any description are incredibly difficult to get right. With the threat of soggy pastry and meat that could either be over or underdone, it takes a most accomplished cook to attempt this dish. And in silence, we ate what could only be described as accomplished. Served with caramelised red cabbage and green beans, the whole dish could be summed up in one word  –  perfection!

Seasonal squash, served with rocket, Dunsyre blue and delicately flavoured with rosemary

Rounding off the savoury with something sweet is always the best way to end a meal. A dessert of baked chocolate pudding, hazelnuts and ice cream was served on stylish slate plates (which we later found out came from Chris’ parent’s roof). The combination of the warm chocolate pudding, and ice cream, with crunchy hazelnuts, left us speechless as we devoured our puddings. And it didn’t end there as we were presented with macaroons from local favourite Patisserie Madeleine, to accompany our after dinner coffee.

The cost

Considering the standard of the food served, the suggested donation of £25 per person is hard to digest. A meal of this calibre in certain Edinburgh eateries would cost a great deal more, and it’s highly unlikely you would receive the same level of service, and have your glass topped up all night long. Using only seasonal and local produce where possible (including Stockbridge legends Armstrongs and George Bowers), the best advice we could give you would be do everything you can to get a seat, at this truly wonderful table.

Contact

Email rachelandchrisrowley (at) gmail (dot) com to be placed on their mailing list and to be notified when there are new places available.  Chris and Rachel still work on trust with their diners, no tickets required to book, just a ‘donation’ on the night which is done at the end of the evening into an envelope with the coffees.

Dessert to die for

You can read their blog which also has entries on past dining events and delicious recipes.

The couple are also on twitter – @Charlie_Evelyn and  on Facebook for those that don’t tweet.

Catering

Chris and Rachel have supplied canapés for numerous events in recent months (both corporate and prviate) and even fully catered for a wedding in the summer.

If you have a special event that you would like them to cater for, drop them an email to discuss.

You can also read their most frequently asked questions.

If you are slightly nervous what to expect at an Edinburgh supper club, please read our previous post which covers arrival, seating and how it’s perfectly acceptable to dine on your own and make new friends.

Edinburgh secret supper clubs

There are several supper clubs in Edinburgh now – it certainly seems to be the new ‘eating out’ and we’re determined to get round them all. Dates vary, but spaces tend to go fast for all clubs, so don’t delay in reserving your spot at the table you want. Some hosts ask you to book tickets in advance (leaving a small ‘donation’ to pay on the night) and some require full payment.

Here are the links to the other supper clubs hosting in Edinburgh at the moment (and coming soon).

Kitchen Porters – email kitchenports@yahoo.co.uk to be placed on their mailing list and notified of new dates.

My Home Supper – you can also find the club on twitter and on facebook

Crescent Dining – also on twitter

Inside out chef –  also on twitter

Table for ten – also on twitter and on facebook

Chai Lounge – Edinburgh’s first Indian supper club. Also on twitter and on facebook

Avant Edinburgh – coming early 2012

Venison Wellington with caramelised red cabbage

Photos courtesy Chris and Rachel Rowley.

We were just looking through some of our archives on the website and realised that we had quite a collection of photos that we’ve taken in and around Edinburgh. Here are some of our favourites and the links to the original articles.

Classic Edinburgh Castle shot

Edinburgh Castle from Hanover Street

Figgate Park

Arthur's Seat from Figgate Park

Princes Street Gardens in the Autumn

Edinburgh Sparkles

Water of Leith walk

Dunsapie Loch

One of our many Fringe photos

Winter solstice lunar eclipse from Edinburgh

Boxing Day 2010 sunrise

View from Calton Hill in the snow

Winter sunset over Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh’s Wild West

Sunset July 2011

Sighthill flats being demolished

Calton Hill from the roof of the Balmoral Hotel

Edinburgh from above

Dean Cemetery on Halloween

Red Arrows display over Edinburgh

Red Arrows over the Firth of Forth

Walk around Arthur’s Seat in the snow

Edinburgh Castle from Arthur's Seat

A spoken word group with a difference, Illicit Ink has a refreshingly relaxed and entertaining approach to literature and storytelling.

Formed from an idea by Napier’s creative writing students, Illicit Ink has a forthcoming event on 2nd October with a Halloween theme – Monsters Ink.

We caught up Illicit Ink’s ‘Benevolent Dictator’, Babs Melville, to find out more.

Illicit Ink

Back in February, the students from Edinburgh Napier’s MA Creative Writing teamed up with Writers’ Bloc for Love Sick, an anti-Valentine spoken word event. It was terrific, and everyone wanted to know when the next one was. So, a few of us students formed Illicit Ink, running themed events every two months, and offering slots out to other writers. I direct and produce, and Matt Nadelhaft helps with promotion. Jennifer Bryce and Ariadne Cass-Maran are our two in-house compères.

There are several aims, but at its heart, Illicit Ink is a celebration of the power and joy of language. The big aim is to nurture this celebration, entertaining audiences with playful, colourful stories that were meant to be read aloud. The ‘old school’ literary events, where everyone is asleep (or wishing they were), is our idea of Literary Hell.

But we’re not just audience focused – we support the writers, offering rehearsals or editing where needed, and more recently, performance workshops.

Is it open to anyone; or only students?

Anyone can apply for a reading slot, and anyone can come along to listen. I say ‘apply’, which sounds a bit scary, but it isn’t really. We like to be sure writers understand the commitment of writing a story to a set theme – you can’t sign up and then forget about us until the day of the event, and then crawl in with a story about elves when the theme is espionage.

We like to keep in touch with writers and help them shape their stories.

How does it differ from other spoken word groups and performances?

I think what makes us different comes down to a combination of factors: we have striking themes, we’re prose-only, and the line-ups change.

The events also have a warm but mischievous atmosphere I can’t place elsewhere. I think this is partly because we encourage dark and witty stories, but also because we use a venue with a burlesque feel. The material works so well with Cabaret Voltaire’s Speakeasy as its backdrop. Any venue where you can wear a feather boa (and get away with it) is a plus in our book.

What does a typical event consist of?

People come in, have a drink and a chat, and get bit of cake, chocolate, or in the case of Monsters Ink, a cookie. The compère kicks things off, introducing each performer to the stage. We have a break half way through to allow for further chatter, and after the second half, a few folks always stay on for a drink and more banter. For a ‘sit and listen’ event, it is very sociable.

But if there’s room to play with the form or do something different, we will – in fact we encourage writers and compères to consider performing experimental material. For example, at Love Sick, we had a musical collaborative performance, and at our murder-themed event, the compère introduced all the writers as suspects in a literary murder.

Monsters Ink

You can expect monster sound effects, cookies, and several funny stories, including some read in character. Stories include obtrusive seagulls, Mary Shelley in a bad mood, and a zombie story which doesn’t contain any zombies. That last one was inspired by our ‘no zombies’ rule in the writing guidelines. We encourage writers to push the boundaries, and it’s always fun when they find creative loopholes.

Have any members gone on to writing success? Are there published authors who take part?

We don’t have members as such – the admin team have all either compèred or read stories, but we’re not always in the line-up. It’s also early days, given our first event was in February. Nevertheless, I sent this question out to everyone who has performed with us, and was heartened by the responses.

Several of the writers have a track record of published works, including Tracey S. Rosenberg, Sean Martin, Andrew J. Wilson and Sindhu Rajasekaran.

But it depends on the goals of the individual. Many find the performance itself a huge achievement, and I tend to agree with them. I’d been put off performing after a bad gig last year, but reading at Love Sick got me past it. We each have our own metric for success.

Where can people go to find out more?

We’re on Facebook and Twitter, and our website is at illicitink.net.

We’re on the lookout for writers to perform at future events. Anyone interested should either drop us an email at team@illicitink.net, or come and say hello to us at Monsters Ink.

In Jubliee Gardens

Stockbridge Market opens for business

Stockbridge Market opened for business today in Jubilee Gardens.

Open from 10am – 5pm every Sunday, the market aims to get bigger and better, encouraging locals to do their shopping there. If the market is a success, it will also be open on Thursday evenings from 3pm – 8pm.

There was a good selection of producers today including a fish stall, meat stalls, jams, baked goods amongst many others.

Artisan Roast had a cute corner where you could buy one of their excellent coffees accompanied by a slice of Cake (from North Berwick).

Stoats had a stall selling their excellent porridge oats and bars and also in attendance was Real Foods and Ziggy’s Really Good Food (vegetarian specialists).

We were pretty impressed at the selection for this inaugural event and there was certainly enough choice to buy Sunday lunch and dinner and into the start of the week.

Not just food

A handful of stalls selling soap, cashmere gifts, jewellery and handbags complete the market and judging by the amount of people in attendance around 12noon – the market is going to be very popular!

Suitable for disabled? Yes, on ground level with ample room around the stalls.

Artisan Roast

Liddlesdale Selection

Freshly baked bread

Jams and chutneys

One of the cake stalls

Fish and seafood

A selection of mushrooms

Jungle City in Edinburgh

Jungle City invades Edinburgh city centre

We had previously reported on the Jungle City invading the Botanical Gardens in Edinburgh, but now they’ve invaded the city centre!

The animals have been relocated to various streets around town and will then regroup for one final gathering at the National Museum of Scotland, before being sold at auction in aid of the preservation of Asian elephants.

• There are 130 sculptures of mother and baby elephants, tigers, hornbills, crocodiles, orangutans and tigers.  All have been creatively decorated by artists and celebrities.

They’re really easy to spot around town, but concentrated in Princes Street Gardens, St Andrew Square, Castle Street, Rose Street, The Mound and a few of the more ‘glam’ animals are housed in Harvey Nichols. They’ll be on the streets of Edinburgh for the next few weeks before they’re auctioned off for charity.

• Fifty of the sculptures can ‘talk’ and feature voiceovers by a number of celebrities including Andrea Corr, Dame Rula Lenska and Geri Halliwell.  You will have the opportunity to use the audio guides to listen to the voices.

• The Jungle City concept is the brainchild of Elephant Family founder and conservationist Mark Shand

Spotted in St Andrew Square

• The online auction will go live on 22nd September – please visit www.jungle-city.org for further details
• The auction will take place 29th September at the National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh

You can find the Elephant Family and Jungle City on Facebook and follow them on twitter.

West Princes Street Gardens

Keeping an eye on Frederick Street

East Princes Street Gardens

Gold animal at Harvey Nichols

In the shadows of the Scott Monument

Spotted at The Mound

The Mound

NOTE – There is supposed to be a trail map available for purchase at Harvey Nichols so that you can go around town and mark off all of the animals as you spot them. At the time of writing this, the staff had no idea about anything like that for sale. We will endeavour to find out and update this article as soon as we have any more information. There is an interactive online version available now and a downloadble PDF.

Today the 2012 Olympic Torch was on display in Castle Street.  Mark Cooper, an ultra-endurance runner from Edinburgh has been nominated to carry the torch prior to it arriving in London.

Edinburgh's Mark Cooper holds the 2012 flame

London 2012

For years, the Royal Museum on Chambers Street was the ‘forgotten bedfellow’ of the National Museum of Scotland. Now, after a three year refurbishment, it is ready to reopen its doors once more: with a treasure trove of objects and exhibits and a modern space which has been designed to give access to its rich and varied collection to everyone.

View our photo gallery and video tour of the National Museum of Scotland

The National Museum of Scotland - a treasure of Edinburgh

Window on the World

The grand steps from Chambers Street leading to the entrance doors of course remain: but street-level access to either side of them now leads into the new Entrance Hall. Originally the basement, the space was used to store the huge number of objects not on permanent display.

Now, with its vaulted ceiling and new Caithness stone flooring, the Entrance Hall provides a new and welcoming introduction to the museum, with a shop, a brasserie and visitor facilities. Described by architect Gareth Hoskins as like ‘holding up a grade-A listed building with one hand’, the work done on the Entrance Hall is the first sign of the museum’s impressive and modern transformation.

Newly-installed glass lifts take visitors into the stunning Victorian architecture of the Grand Gallery. As they glide smoothly upwards, they pass the Window on the World, a four-storey installation of objects from the museum’s collection. An example of the innovative work by designer Ralph Applebaum, it is intended to evoke a sense of drama and wonder: a nod to the original Victorian intention of the museum as a ‘portal’ into cultural amusement and public education.

The World Cultures galleries

The lifts also ensure access to the upper galleries is easy and fully accessible. Prior to the refurbishment, only around 10% of visitors ever ventured above the ground floor. Now, we imagine most people will take the lifts straight to the top, to marvel at the architecture of the Victorian ‘birdcage’ design and to enjoy the new sense of light and space which the transformation has provided.

From the Grand Gallery, 16 new themed exhibition spaces can be reached. The National Museum of Scotland’s collection is broad, encompassing science, nature and culture: but the galleries are connected by a broad theme of showcasing the Scots as a nation of inventors, entrepreneurs and explorers; their objects telling stories of the nation’s ingenuity, sense of adventure and its thirst for knowledge.

The galleries therefore include Shaping Our World, an innovative look at how technology has affected our lives; and the World Cultures galleries, bringing together objects from all corners of the world in a fascinatingly curated collection.

Old friends in the Natural World galleries

If like us, you have fond memories of visiting the museum as a child, then the Natural World gallery will be a welcome surprise. A stunning new three-storey installation, it is filled with some old friends – and some destined to become new favourites. Sealife exhibits ‘swim’ overhead: above leaping tigers, fighting peacocks and powerful dinosaur skeletons. The overall impact is striking and modern, and this section of the museum is likely to be the first stop for children and families.

When the museum first opened in the 19th century, the papers proudly reported that there was ‘no sign of wantonness’. Nor, we are happy to report, is there any on display today – only a stunning and impressive modern museum for the 21st century which is all set to become one of Edinburgh’s top attractions for visitors and residents alike.

The National Museum of Scotland opens to the public at 10:00 on 29 July. The grand reopening will be preceded by celebrations on Chambers Street outside at 09:15 – more information is available here.

Video of the Grand Gallery and Natural World gallery

A public art project has been popping up all over Edinburgh in recent days.  The Inside Out art project seeks to highlight issues around the use of CCTV surveillance and is inspired by anonymous French artist JR. More details are available on the University website.

The portraits will remain in place throughout the Edinburgh Festival allowing everyone to seek out and enjoy them. The ones in McEwan Hall are the easiest to spot, but there are others dotted around the centre of town. We won’t spoil the fun by posting picture of them all here, but be sure to look down closes and up flights of stairs.

Update – the artwork on the stairs of Warriston’s Close has now been removed by the council for ‘health and safety’ reasons. Report on STV Edinburgh.

McEwan Hall

McEwan Hall faces

The portraits have been pasted over the building and you can see the inscriptions of the building in her face

McEwan Hall

Warriston's Close (only if you look upwards)

Because the picture is created on the vertical side of the steps, those walking downwards are unaware of the portrait behind them

The Warriston's Close picture was removed by the council after 2 days

The Edinburgh Festival is a wonderful explosion of culture, colour and crowds which bursts over the city during August. You may be forgiven for thinking all you have to do is turn up with a pocketful of hopes and dreams and enjoy yourself.

Whilst that is true to an extent, if you’ve never been to Edinburgh before – or have, but not for a few years – here are a few tips and hints from us to help ease your experience:

Climb every mountain

One of Edinburgh's many, many hills

Edinburgh is a hilly city – you will walk uphill to get to the venue; and you will walk uphill to get back again.

Some of the hills (Arthur’s Seat, Calton Hill) provide spectacular views and escapes from the crowds, but most of them (The Mound, Dundas Street, et al) merely provide you with a hill.

So either come prepared with sensible footwear, or rely on public transport to get you where you need to be (though see point below).

I can see clearly now the haar has gone

Edinburgh is a coastal city, with a rather unique weather system.

You will notice this if you go up one of the nice hills and look to the north, where you’ll see the Firth of Forth shimmering its silvery way towards the North Sea.

Unless the haar has descended, that fog-like gift from the North Sea so beloved of Edinburgh residents, covering all in a blanket of cold, damp, impenetrable greyness. Cold, damp, impenetrable greyness that only the rain rapidly approaching from the west will disperse.

So be warned, whilst we wish for a month of unbroken sunshine as much as anyone, come suitably armed or be prepared to pay astronomical prices for plastic tartan pac-a-macs.

Men at work

Please use an alternative route...

Edinburgh is in the throes of a massive traffic improvement scheme, introducing a modern cutting-edge tram network to the city.

This has had the unavoidable side effect of turning large swathes of our roads into building sites and results in frequent congestion and travel delays.

We think the trams will be great…when they’re finished…but in the meantime, we would advise adding an extra half hour onto any journey you may have planned that crosses the route of the tramworks.

The wheels on the bus go round

Edinburgh has a fantastic public transport system, and hundreds of reliable and friendly bus and taxi drivers (seriously, we know a few).

However, the combination of Festival over-population and the tramworks may strain the patience of even the most saintly, so please be kind to any you encounter.

If indeed you manage to catch one at all – taxis in particular do become quite a rare species during August.

You can’t please all of the people all of the time

Not everyone in Edinburgh loves the Fringe.

Probably NOT fans of avant-garde physical theatre

Hard to believe, I know, but you will likely come across at least three distinct types of anti-festival groups during your visit:

1. Firstly, there are those that have to go to work. These souls deserve your sympathy, as most of them would dearly love to be swanning around from show to show and drinking in the open air just like you. The looks of sheer hatred they shoot you may persuade you otherwise, but trust us, it’s true: we were those people once…
2. Secondly, there are those dear old Edinburgh ladies, who wish for nothing more than to walk slowly from one end of George Street to the other carrying large bags of shopping, muttering about how things used to be better before “all this festival nonsense” started. Best avoided, or at least carefully overtaken.
3. Lastly, and this is semi-serious, the young and disaffected. Now, Edinburgh is by and large a safe city, but feral packs of youths have been spotted prowling the streets before. They tend to keep away from the main venues, but if you do find yourself close to any, keep your head down and don’t say things like “Felicity, what did you make of that emotionally effervescent theatrical tour-de-force we just had the good fortune to witness?” within their earshot. Parts of Trainspotting are based on fact, you know.

Two pints of lager and a packet of crisps please

Edinburgh is full of pubs.

Surely a good thing? Yes, and no.

On some streets, every second establishment is a pub (and the ones in between are off-licences). And opening hours are extended so much during the Festival, it is possible to drink 24/7 if you so wish.

If you are easiliy tempted, you could find yourself drunk by breakfast, hungover by lunchtime and refused entry into a show or two for looking dazed and confused by teatime.

Remember – all things in moderation….

Enjoy!

That’s it. Keep the above in mind and you’ll be sure to have a fantastic time. As for us, we love the whole mad circus of the Fringe, and we’re looking forward to welcoming you here.

Remember to say hello if you see us. We’ll be walking up a hill.

The talented Emily Dodd

Edinburgh’s Emily Dodd publishes her first e-book

Banana me beautiful is a book with a difference. It’s a journey of poetry, art and photography by a child, teenager and adult – Emily Dodd.

Award winning author Emily currently lives and works in Edinburgh where tells stories, delivers Environmental Education, makes podcasts and films and writes for BBC Scotland (CBeebies). As an artist, scientist and writer, she has a unique perspective on the world that gives the book its magic.

Emily is also a keen community volunteer in Edinburgh. She volunteers as a multimedia journalist for award winning hyper-local website Greener Leith and as an Edinbuzz Social Media surgeon. Emily also received an Inspiring Volunteer Award earlier this year and is constantly helping out others in the community.

Banana me beautiful

The book takes the reader through three stages in Emily’s life:

• Innocent: Age 9 – 11
• Lost and Found: Age 15 – 17
• Alive: Age 25 – 28

It brings together a collection of poems and artwork from these three stages of her life: in Emily’s own words, “from banana slug to beautiful bug“.

Emily’s official book launch of Banana me Beautiful is on Monday 11th July on the Leith Agency Boat, Mary de Guise Barge, at The Shore and all 80 tickets were snapped up immediately by Edinburgh’s literati.

Emily won’t be able to sign Banana me Beautiful since it’s an e-book, but she will autograph limited edition postcards for the lucky attendees.

We spoke to Emily ahead of Monday’s event and she told us, “I’m feeling nervous about performing in front of 80 adults (give me a hall full of children and I’m fine, but adults….).”

“I’m also really excited and I’m looking forward to sharing the evening with so many wonderful people.”

Emily’s e-book is available for purchase now and we think it’s an excellent way to spend £5 and support this multi-talented Edinburgh author.

You can find Emily on twitter and read her blog and join in the Banana me beautiful fun on her facebook page.

Good luck for the launch Emily!

Artwork from the book

Emily also asked us to thank the following people:

All the friends who are baking banana cakes, the authors who are reading my poems – Young Dawkins, Sara Sheridan and Juliet Wilson, Vegware for providing compostable cups, The Leith Agency for lending me their boat for the evening, Edd McCracken for hosting the Q and A, Alison MacKintosh for opening the evening, Jo Skinner for helping me to design the postcards, my Mum and Dad for providing wine. Drew Murphy for acoustic music on the night, Hamish Hibbert the photographer. And all the folks who’ve helped to promote the event / book online including Edinburgh City of Literature, Scottish Book Trust, Edinburgh Reporter, STV Local and Evening News. Also to Lindon at Mosko Hairdressing.

View from Camera Obscura

Get busy in the summer holidays by exploring Edinburgh

It’s almost the summer break and the kids will be off school looking for things to do.  Here’s some of our suggestions that come with our full recommendation and have all been individually reviewed.  You can also look at our things to do section for further ideas and our kids section.

1.Visit the excellent Camera Obscura on the Royal Mile.  Allow the kids to explore and learn on this very hands-on tourist attraction.

2. Take a trip to Edinburgh Zoo.  It’s a firm favourite of ours and we’ve taken the mini-Spotlight members many times.

3.  Explore underground Edinburgh at Mary King’s Close.  Perfect for any weather, the mini-Spotlight members enjoyed their time there.

4.  Pay a visit to Dr Neil’s Garden in Duddingston and pretend it’s a secret wonderland.   FREE

5.  Use up energy by climbing to the top of the Scott Monument and enjoy panoramic views of Edinburgh.  Get children to count every one of the 287 steps.

6. Explore the National Museum on Chambers Street and be sure to visit the 7th floor for spectacular views of the Edinburgh skyline, including the castle. The new museum is open now. FREE

7. Go squirrel hunting the Botanical Gardens.  Arm the family with some nuts and hunt out the squirrels and feed them.  FREE

8. Be a tourist in your own city and make good use of the Edinburgh Pass.  We saved a whopping £57.15 with a bit of careful planning.

View from Nelson Monument

9.  Admire the swans at St Margaret’s Loch and then walk around Arthur’s Seat.  Point out areas of Edinburgh to the children and get them to spot buildings such as Edinburgh Castle and Easter Road football stadium. If you’re feeling particularly energetic, you could also walk to the top!   FREE

10.  Visit an ancient castle.  We love Craigmillar Castle as you can climb all over it and explore every nook and cranny.

11.  Pay a visit to Gorgie Zoo. The goats, pigs, horses and other animals will keep youngsters amused for hours.  FREE

12.  Take a stroll along the Water of Leith and see if you can spot one of the otters living there just now.  There’s an abundance of wildlife to be seen and if you do spot any, photograph it and submit it to the excellent Edinburgh Wildlife site.  FREE

13.  Take a trip to the Edinburgh Brass Rubbing Centre.  Admire the beautiful building and have some quiet ‘craft’ time with children.  A perfect wet weather activity. (currently closed for refurbishment),

14. Visit the Museum of Childhood on the Royal Mile and show the little ones toys from years ago. FREE

15. Ever seen a million pounds?  You can at the Museum on the Mound as well as seeing what used to be used as money.  The museum often run workshops for children in the summer holidays. FREE

View from the Scott Monument

16. Explore the Royal Mile and Holyrood Park. Start at the top and walk down one side exploring every close, nook and cranny.  Once you reach the Parliament, cross the road and explore the other side back up to the Castle. You’ll discover secret gardens and places you never knew existed. FREE

17. Walk up Calton Hill and soak in the views of Edinburgh. Look southwards and try to spot Holyrood Palace. You also get a perfect view of Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags.  Sit on the Portugese Cannon and climb the Athenian acropolis. FREE

18. Visit Nelson Monument and climb to the top for unrivaled 360 degree views of Edinburgh.

19. Walk up and down the newly opened Scotsman Steps that connect North Bridge to Market Street.  There’s 104 different coloured steps to count and get the wee ones to point out their favourite colour. FREE

20. Have a game of pitch n’ putt on Brunstfield Links. FREE

Heron, Water of Leith

Shortcut from North Bridge

The Scotsman Steps are open again with 104 different coloured marble steps

Edinburgh’s famous Scotsman Steps have been revamped and a major artwork installed to once again provide a grand public passageway between the city’s Old and New Town.  We’ve missed the handy shortcut from North Bridge to Market Street and are delighted that they’re open again.

Originally built in 1899, as part of the Scotsman building – the steps have undergone a major refurbishment to create an attractive way to get quickly from one level of the city to another as well as creating a unique art destination in its own right. Previously the building looked run down and worse for wear with graffiti on the walls, damage to the stairs and recurring anti-social behaviour.

Now, the City of Edinburgh Council has been working with Edinburgh World Heritage and the Fruitmarket Gallery on a major project to bring the historic steps back to life.

Market Street entrance

Colourful marble

Since 2009, repairs have been carried out, retaining much of the original architecture. The work was carried out with around £250,000 funding from the Council and Edinburgh World Heritage. And the Fruitmarket Gallery also commissioned a Turner-Prize winning Scottish artist, Martin Creed in a £250,000 stunning art project.

The artwork called, Work 1059 is a feast for the eyes – with 104 steps leading from the Scotsman Hotel on North Bridge to Waverley Station and The Fruitmarket Gallery on Market Street. Each step is clad in a different colour of marble. Martin Creed is an artist of international reputation, in 2001; he won the Turner Prize with Work No. 227: The lights going on and off.

It is hoped, that the new refurbishment and artwork will not only improve the condition of the steps and bring in a wow factor but will reduce anti-social behaviour which was once associated with the building.

One more level to North Bridge

View out the windows of Waverley, North Bridge and The Balmoral

Marble detail

A rainbow of colours

Edinburgh lies for tourists

Parking at the Castle is easy in the summer

We’ve been known to play tricks on our readers on the 1st of April before.  Last year we reported there was to be a funicular built on the Royal Mile in August and this year, we said there would be a massive street party for the Royal Wedding complete with deep fried mars bars.

Over in our twitter stream, @Alextechedin suggested that we use the twitter hashtag #edinburghliesfortourists since London did it yesterday.

Some really funny answers coming into today:

@wrathofgod – Locals love being given multiple brochures for student plays on the Royal Mile in August

@Nickylang Barry and Ken are two popular local celebrities

@AlexTechEdin – ask for one of the pipers in the High Street if you can have a go, they are happy to show you

@tenten7 – NO restaurants in Edinburgh (esp on Royal Mile) changes prices on the menu in August

@BoogieForth1 – The cannonball shot from the one o’clock gun usually lands in the Forth just near Kirkcaldy

@Tomgoodliffe The Forth Bridge is so called because the first 3 fell down

@endless_pysch Don’t worry if you accidentally refer to the locals as English they will simply laugh it off

@endless_psych The Forth Bridge is an engineering marvel designed to open like an accordion to let tall ships through

@Charlie_Evelyn  Deep fried Christmas pudding flamed in ironbru is traditionally served on Dec 25th. If you’re here in Dec, try it.

@antibarbie – The Castle was built in 1842 to celebrate Queen Victoria’s visit to Edinburgh

@Jimmychip – You’ll be ablt to go anywhere you want on a tram in a few months

@darrenadam – Friendly and helpful parking attendants are always on hand to find you access to the city’s free, unmetered spaces

@El_duderino81 - The Evening News website comments section is a well-balanced, reasonable place to gauge the pulse of the city.

@darrenadam – On a clear day, the Norwegian capital Oslo can be seen from Seafield Road

@nevali – EDINBORO is an acceptable alternative pronunciation

@josiebalfour – Driving up the Royal Mile and parking at the castle is a synch, especially in the summer

@endless_psych It is traditional to spit on any police you see near the Heart of Midlothian

@mrsCupcake79 – Local residents are thrilled by the prospect of the Royal Wedding taking place in July

@MichaelMcLeod1 – Licking the Heart of Midlothian brings good luck

@Crabbitcopy Sean Connery delivered my auntie/uncle/granny’s milk before he got famous

@AoftheLorrs – You should be right to just rock up in August and find a room

@harrietrobson – Yes I do know HAMISH, your third cousin, four times removed

@Scotfoodblog  - The Edinburgh Dungeon is witty, informative, scary and well worth the very reasonable entrance fee

@NickMitchell – Burke and Hare were a successful electro-pop duo in the early 80s

And from our facebook page:

Andy Peutherer – They take the castle down after the festival, and it has an escalator round the back.

Paddy Hare – The one o’clock gun isn’t ceremonial, its just the fifers like to try and invade the same time every day

We’ll add the best of the rest later on in the day!

If you’re on twitter, have a look at the #Edinburghliesfortourists search. Not on twitter?  We’ve asked people over on our facebook page to list theirs there.

This time he stood at the top!

Edinburgh’s Stephen Green  summits Everest

We featured local lad Stephen Green last year when he was attempting to be one of the youngest Britons to ever summit Mount Everest. 

Unfortunately due to circumstances beyond his control, he had to turn back a short distance from the top.  Speaking with Stephen when he returned to Edinburgh it was obvious he was very disappointed, but glad to have returned from his trip safe and well. 

Stephen has to be one of the most genuinely nice people who we’ve ever had the fortune to interview and is also extremely modest.  After some probing on why the last attempt failed, it became apparent that it was a mix up in the oxygen tanks, leaving him with two empty ones when he needed them.  It was this mistake by someone else that prevented him from summiting, but there were no hard feelings from Stephen, he said told us,  “it was just one of those things”.   

View from his tent at high altitude

Tired and despondent he descended the mountain with his team mate Brendon but soon came across a collapsed Bangladeshi climber. The climber’s Sherpa was not able to help him on his own and this is where Stephen and Brendon noticed his oxygen tank was turned down low and had a hole in the pipe.  Stephen gave him the rest of his own water to drink and power gels which gave him enough energy to return to his feet and be escorted down the mountain to safety. 

26th May 2011

The 26th May 2011 is going to feature higly in Stephen’s memory as it was the day he stood on top of the world!  There is some information on Adventure Peaks website but to say that he’s a determined young man in an understatement as his personal facebook status the other week said that he was in a Nepalese hospital suffering from altitude sickness. 

He is recovering from his climb and promised to be back ‘online’ soon for an update.  We’re glad he’s better at climbing mountains than he is keeping his social media sites updated!  We hear a rumour that he managed to drive a golf ball off the summit – the highest golf shot ever?

Raising funds for charity

Having travelled throughout Nepal and the Himalayas, I have wondered in amazement how someone could conquer anyof the peaks in conditions of below freezing temperatures and extreme windchill.   There are dangerous ice crevasses to navigate as well as coping with high altitude and the sickness that it can strike even the fittest person.  The summit of Mount Everest is the highest place on earth at 8848m and made me dizzy looking at it from a plane.  In Nepal, the epic mountain is known as Chomolungma, which means: mother goddess of the universe and has to be treated with respect.

On Everest, 2010

 

 

Further information

 

More information on his website, which also has his 2010 entries in the archives.  You can make a donation here and follow Stephen on twitter and like his facebook page.

 

Congratulations Stephen, we think you’re amazing!

Race ducks

2011 Stockbridge Duck race date announced

The date for this year’s fabulous Stockbridge Duck Race has been announced and it will be taking place on Sunday 3rd July.

Ducks will be launched over the bridge around 3pm.

There is an event page to be kept up to date with the latest duck racing news.

The Stockbridge Duck Race is an annual event held to help raise money for local charities. The chosen charities for  2011 are Lifecare and St Columba’s Hospice.

All ducks are numbered and released into the Water of Leith from the the main bridge, then caught by our resident duck wardens further down stream.  The first lucky ducks to cross the line are noted and the owners are awarded a prize generously donated by many businesses.

The ducks are now on sale for £1.50 where you see the yellow poster including:
The Antiquary 72-78 St. Stephen Street EH3 5AQ
The Bailie Bar 2-4 St. Stephen Street EH3 5AL
Elements, 6 Hamilton Place EH3 5AU
Hectors 47-49 Deanhaugh Street EH4 1LR
The Stockbridge Tap 2 Raeburn Place EH4 1HN
St Bernard’s Bar 10 Raeburn Place EH4 1HN

Spread the word about the Edinburgh race of the year and contact the organisers via their facebook page if you can donate some prizes.

A great fun day out for all the family with the added benefit of raising money for charity.  Edinburgh Spotlight will be buying their duck and feeding it up prior to the race!

2011

One of our most popular articles on the website has been Edinburgh’s Wild West. We were recently in the area and took some more pictures of this quirky Edinburgh location. 

Hidden in Morningside

Wild West Saloon

Edinburgh's quirkiest street?

Wild West Saloon

Morningside

Morningside Jail

Great detail

Worth a visit

Entrance to Edinburgh's Wild West

Hidden in a street in Morningside, lies Edinburgh’s Wild West.  It was built in 1995/6 by Michael Faulkner as part of the ambience of the sales area for a furniture business, which specialised in Southwestern style.  There were a number of let units in ‘El Paso’ too, occupied by ceramists and other artists. The project took six months and by great stroke of good luck, one of the employees, and his very talented girlfriend, had worked on the construction of Euro Disney – hence the authentic paint effects and signage.  

The site now lies as part of Edinburgh’s quirky character.  The old Springvalley cinema used to lie at the heart of this bizarre street – but only workshops and garages use the space today. You can visit at any time to take pictures and experience this amazing street for yourself and you will see that the door of the Cantina is still used as the fire door for Morningside library.  

Many residents of Edinburgh don’t know this part of town exists – but definitely worth a visit. 

Michael Macleod

Farewell to the Guardian Edinburgh Beatblog

Ever since the Guardian Beatblog began last year, we’ve found it to be an excellent source of reliable and relevant Edinburgh news, notable for being able to get the news ‘out there’ quickly and across a number of channels.  

We enjoyed it when Tom Allan- the first Edinburgh Beatblogger – got things rolling; and equally so when Michael MacLeod took over, continuing to provide an essential community news source for the city. We met and became good friends with both Tom and Michael, and were saddened to hear the news that The Guardian have decided to close down the Edinburgh Beatblog.  

Michael received many references after the closure was announced which confirmed his enthusiasm and talent. He also volunteered at the successful Edinbuzz Social Media Surgeries. One of our favourite articles was when Michael reported an Edinburgh councillor doing sudoku during The Gathering debate.  

We’ll miss Michael’s timely updates; his round-up of local blogs and events; and his friendly and professional manner on Twitter and Facebook – and of course we wish him every success in the future!  

Michael’s last blog will be on Friday 27th May 2011.