The Royal Mile runs through the heart of the Old Town and is a must for any visitors to the city. As a resident, I have walked up and down the street hundreds of times over the years, but there is always some small detail that I notice every time I explore the area. The Royal Mile runs from Edinburgh Castle down to Holyrood Palace and consists of six different sections.
Edinburgh Castle
Starting from the top, there is Edinburgh Castle where you will find the Scottish Crown, Sword and Sceptre, and the legendary Stone of Destiny. Free guided tours are included with the admission price, or you can take it at your own pace with an audio tour. At peak tourist times, it makes sense to buy your tickets in advance as the ticket queues can take up valuable sightseeing time. If your budget doesn’t allow full entry to the Castle, make sure you still walk through the grand entrance so you can say you have been within the Castle walls. This is now possible due to the relocation of the box office inside the grounds, leaving the esplanade clear for taking excellent photos.
There are panoramic views of Edinburgh to be had from the castle esplanade. Look out for the magnificent George Heriot’s School built in 1628 which looks like another castle, straight out of a fairytale.
As you head down the Castlehill section of the Royal Mile, you will see the Scotch Whisky Experience which also houses Amber Restaurant. On your left, you will see Camera Obscura which is a 150 year old observatory and a fun place for children and adults alike.
Views down the Royal Mile from Camera Obscura
Moving down the Royal Mile, you will start to see many tourist shops which basically sell all the same souvenirs, but at a variety of prices, so it pays to shop around.
The Writer’s Museum is set in a charming courtyard which you can access through Lady Stair’s Close. This is the place to learn about the three great Scots writers, Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson, through manuscripts, portraits and their personal possessions. (free)
Moving down the Royal Mile, you will come to the High Kirk of St Giles (St Giles Cathedral) which has been an Edinburgh landmark since 1160. Make sure you see the rib-vaulted ceiling of the Thistle Chapel. The cathedral looks good at any time of the day or night and in all weather conditions (admission is free, but a donation is welcomed; there is also a small charge requested if you wish to take photos inside). Opposite the cathedral, there is the spooky Mary King’s Close to explore which is a perfect all-weather activity for those aged 5 and up. We have also visited the Close with a psychic medium.
High Kirk of St Giles
Further down the Royal Mile, you will cross North Bridge, and to the left, the road leads down to Princes Street. Stay on the Royal Mile though, and on your left hand side you will come to the Scottish Storytelling Centre which is a theatre with a wide range of entertainment. Those in the know enquire about the local storytellers who can often be found here. This is also the place from which to access John Knox’s House, home to the fiery religious reformer in 1599. The house is a beautiful building to admire from the outside as well. Across the road is the Museum of Childhood, another council-run museum (free admission) which allows older generations re-live toys from their childhood. Young children also like this museum as they try to comprehend what amused the oldies in times gone by!
Why not stop at Clarinda’s Tearoom in the Canongate for tea and cake? Make sure you adhere to the rules in this cute eatery.
Further down is Dunbar’s Close Garden, not often found by tourists. This is a perfect little green area to enjoy a break from the main street. You will often find locals having their lunch here in the warmer months.
Right at the bottom of the Royal Mile you will find the Scottish Parliament. It was designed by Spanish architect Enric Mirrales and despite being a controversial design, he won the contract.
Directly opposite is the Palace of Holyroodhouse which is the royal residence best known for tales of romance and intrigue during the time of Mary Queen of Scots. The state rooms are still used by the present-day Queen, who stays here when she is in town. There is an admission charge, but you can still take a good picture of the palace through the gates to the left.
Although, not strictly on the Royal Mile, you will see Arthur’s Seat which is a fabulous place to get sensational views across the city. It forms part of Holyrood Park and it is worthwhile walking one of the several circular routes around the extinct volcano. You will look down on the Palace and see the spires of the places at the top of the Royal Mile and a fantastic view of the Castle. We reviewed this walk when the area was covered in snow.
The Castle from Arthur's Seat
Bear in mind that it’s still light in the evening till around 10pm in the summer, so this free activity can be enjoyed when other tourist attractions are closed.
This guide is by no means a definitive list of what there is to do on the Royal Mile, but gives you a selection to choose from. The whole area buzzes with charm and surprises and despite having trod the pavement for thirty five years, I still enjoy exploring the hub of activity that is The Royal Mile.
Many of these attractions are available on the Edinburgh Pass that we reviewed.
Tags: Dunbar Close Gardens, Edinburgh, Mary King's Close, Royal Mile, Scottish Parliament, St Giles
